Spring is here

After seemingly one of the longest winters ever, the snow is now evaporating and the birds are singing once again.

I have had reports that Kelowna and Penticton is open and ready for climbing (at the lower elevation crags for sure), I haven't heard anything about Boulder Fields in Kelowna. I have confirmation that Vernon's Cougar Canyon is good to go, just needs some good weather to make it more enjoyable. No word on Syphon Creek or Haines in Salmon Arm.

Some things that are in the works (but not guarenteed) for the Shuswap rock climbing scene this year include the official updates for Syphon Creek's rock climbs in Salmon Arm and a possible release of an updated Haines Creek in the same town. There may also be a re-release of Mara Crags that includes the new development and first ascents that happened there last year.

I hope you enjoy your winter and have a great rock season!

Jordan

Ice Climbing in Revelstoke

This video is a testament to adventuring in the local mountains.

REVY ICE CLIMBING Video

Filmed by Patrick Spohr featuring Allen Rollin of "Just Another Outdoor Page."

Climbing rocks is a useless discipline but can oh so change your life

Before I started climbing, life was fairly dormant. Than like a magical wand it opened my eyes to see what kind of world it pointed to. Resistance was impossible. The climbing tick attached itself firmly to my scalp just like they do at Skaha.

Over the course of the short time that is 5 years my WHOLE universe revolves around that bug. Every choice I make, every thought and every day is comprised with at least a little thought toward climbing. Compromise between life paths and climbing is never made. Climbing HAS to be an everyday option or I don't do it. Travel plans revolve around it, meal plans, sleep paterns, financial moves, social gathering, physical moves, daily training, goal setting , friends, this blog.

And yet, climbing, in and of itself is TOTALLY useless. There is no practical application for climbing outside of climbing. It's a process with no end. But the discipline causes very positive changes that wouldn't have happened should climbing not have appeared... Obsessed? Probably. Delusional? Not a chance.

What would life be like without climbing?

Do We Only "Tolerate" Our Rock Climbing?

I've been thinking a lot recently about what I want to say on this blog other than what's coming up in new climbing areas and guidebooks. That IS what this blog is mainly about...A place where people go to check in with what's happening or where they tell the shuswap/okanagan what's happening.

But because I write in this blog I feel I should have my personal touches to it as well. A question commonly enters my head:

How important is local climbing to you? Is it more than just a place to train or practice so you can REALLY put it down else where? Are your accomplishments more note worthy when they are in popular areas? Does our area simply lack the quality routes that are out there... somewhere?

Personally I think the grass is always greener on the other side of the fence. But why? We have quality routes nearby. Lots of potential for more. We have multi-pitch around here. There are aid climbing routes to try. And we have Really hard projects just sitting there waiting for someone strong enough to push the local grades.

Do we just Love road trips?

J.

Just Another Blog Worth Following!

Allen Rollin, the author of two recent guide books in the vernon area, has got a very impressive and entertaining Web Log (Blog). Check it out. It speaks for it's self!!

Just Another Outdoor Page

3 Hillarious Sisters on a Mission for the Afterlife

There is a blog up now that Follows 3 hillarious Sisters from Salmon Arm on there family mission to Climb the "3 Sisters" in Canmore. I think this should be pretty fun to follow. Read through the intro.

They even have a pull up comparison chart!!

Click here for the link.

Bah!

I have to admit I don't like to fail... It's like not getting your way. I sit on the base of the climb I REALLY wanted to do and feel all sorry for myself cause I couldn't drag my carcass up some silly rock. This weekend I failed my hardest route. Not TRULY failed, but postponed until spring. Usually when you read about climbing projects they are success stories. In my case I haven't enough time because I'm moving and because of wisdom teeth extraction. I guess thats WHY they are good climbing stories! Because just in the nick of time they succeeded.

I didn't dial in the moves well enough, and fast enough and didn't train long enough and hard enough... so now, I won't have another chance till next spring. I could do every section off the dog but linking them in one go I hadn't practiced yet. So either mentally or physically I kept getting flung off.

I wonder how many failed attempts top climbers or advanced climbers go through before they send personal best? I've never seen a failed route on a climbing video except 1 or 2. It was of Adam Stack and Chris Lindner attempting a 5.14 at smith rock. They had 4 days to try it and they both failed before going home. The other was a ground fall but that was shown for obvious reasons. Makes me feel beter.

I'll get it in the spring.

J.

The Bizmark Story

Okay I didn't know this. There is a climb at the boulder fields in Kelowna called The Bizmark (5.13b). Many of you may know it was first Freed by Sonnie Trotter.

But did you know it was a Free Solo?? Oooooooo.

Yep. and the video is here:

http://www.vimeo.com/6511449

Old Timer climbs HARD

The Video on the Left is with John Fantini who is 64 years old Climbing 5.13 in Skaha.

Rock Climbing's Best season.

The Fall. Cool nights warm days, good Friction. Now is the time to work your projects. Send a personal best, or end the season. Alpine is out skiing hasn't begun, But the valley rock is at its best. Get out there and send your hardest route!