Thailand: Climbers Paradise (if you're good)

I feel fat, lazy, weak and undisciplined.

I have never climbed outside our country before and low and behold I choose a world class destination where (no kidding) world class climbers come to climb. And amongst these climbers my ego shrinks into a tiny grain of sand that is in endless abundance here.

In Canada, from what I hear, the average climber climbs at about 5.10b and to climb at a level above 5.11 is very common but definitely above the average grade range. Not here. Not at all. It seems that the vast majority of climbers that come to visit Thailand are all well seasoned in sport climbing performance and to be above average here is to climb 5.13. So coming from a place where I take pride in my 5.11d's, in Thailand they are the warm ups.

Only the students of the climbing schools am I out performing!

I am convinced that the best climbers come from Spain. They are so good at this game. Myself, choosing a rather healthy lifestyle in hopes of better climbing performance, am SHOCKED when I see a group of Spaniards sitting under a 5.12d laughing, talking and smoking cigarettes! All the while watching one of their buddies take another burn on lead! I heard that the Spanish government PAYS climbers if they can climb 5.14 or harder... Talk about cultural motivation!

I am also fully disheartened to realize I am fat! Everywhere I turn is another Six-pack and pecks I wish I had. I think wearing a T-shirt is the best option because people don't KNOW what you have under there and if you are average here... You must be CUT! But that isn't an option because it is just too damn hot.

In reflection of this climbing trip I highly recommend the climbing in Thailand here in Tonsai and Railay, and if you like heat and skin than THIS is the place to be. Though beware the bolts...The bolts so looked at with affection at home (regular expansion bolts) are looked at here with suspicion and disdain for the sea air mixed with steel and the limestone let the bolts escape its normally permanent prison.

New Zealand next.

J.

Climbing rocks is a useless discipline but can oh so change your life

Before I started climbing, life was fairly dormant. Than like a magical wand it opened my eyes to see what kind of world it pointed to. Resistance was impossible. The climbing tick attached itself firmly to my scalp just like they do at Skaha.

Over the course of the short time that is 5 years my WHOLE universe revolves around that bug. Every choice I make, every thought and every day is comprised with at least a little thought toward climbing. Compromise between life paths and climbing is never made. Climbing HAS to be an everyday option or I don't do it. Travel plans revolve around it, meal plans, sleep paterns, financial moves, social gathering, physical moves, daily training, goal setting , friends, this blog.

And yet, climbing, in and of itself is TOTALLY useless. There is no practical application for climbing outside of climbing. It's a process with no end. But the discipline causes very positive changes that wouldn't have happened should climbing not have appeared... Obsessed? Probably. Delusional? Not a chance.

What would life be like without climbing?

Do We Only "Tolerate" Our Rock Climbing?

I've been thinking a lot recently about what I want to say on this blog other than what's coming up in new climbing areas and guidebooks. That IS what this blog is mainly about...A place where people go to check in with what's happening or where they tell the shuswap/okanagan what's happening.

But because I write in this blog I feel I should have my personal touches to it as well. A question commonly enters my head:

How important is local climbing to you? Is it more than just a place to train or practice so you can REALLY put it down else where? Are your accomplishments more note worthy when they are in popular areas? Does our area simply lack the quality routes that are out there... somewhere?

Personally I think the grass is always greener on the other side of the fence. But why? We have quality routes nearby. Lots of potential for more. We have multi-pitch around here. There are aid climbing routes to try. And we have Really hard projects just sitting there waiting for someone strong enough to push the local grades.

Do we just Love road trips?

J.

Bah!

I have to admit I don't like to fail... It's like not getting your way. I sit on the base of the climb I REALLY wanted to do and feel all sorry for myself cause I couldn't drag my carcass up some silly rock. This weekend I failed my hardest route. Not TRULY failed, but postponed until spring. Usually when you read about climbing projects they are success stories. In my case I haven't enough time because I'm moving and because of wisdom teeth extraction. I guess thats WHY they are good climbing stories! Because just in the nick of time they succeeded.

I didn't dial in the moves well enough, and fast enough and didn't train long enough and hard enough... so now, I won't have another chance till next spring. I could do every section off the dog but linking them in one go I hadn't practiced yet. So either mentally or physically I kept getting flung off.

I wonder how many failed attempts top climbers or advanced climbers go through before they send personal best? I've never seen a failed route on a climbing video except 1 or 2. It was of Adam Stack and Chris Lindner attempting a 5.14 at smith rock. They had 4 days to try it and they both failed before going home. The other was a ground fall but that was shown for obvious reasons. Makes me feel beter.

I'll get it in the spring.

J.